I’m sitting on the shady patio of the Paradisio cafe in Vlychadia, overlooking an azure bay. My wet swimming kit is drying on the fence. “I should explain the breakfast,” says Stethis, who has been my guide on an epic morning of hiking, caving and swimming. “Kalymnos people like to mix unexpected tastes. That tea is alisfakia – sage – with thyme honey. And that mizithra cheese goes with the watermelon.”
I try it. Great combination.
“And the coffee is bitter, but you’ve got this vanilla-scented sugar stick.”